THE SIMONSIDE RIDGE
The Simonside Hills are a heather-clad, 5 mile ridge of fell sandstone running across the eastern border of the Northumberland National Park between Elsdon and Rothbury. The characteristically dark heather moorlands have given the name of the 'Black Lands' to these and the Harbottle Hills, in contrast to the `White Lands' of the grass-covered Cheviots. The finest one-day excursion in the Simon-side Hills is the 4 mile traverse of the main ridge, from Garleigh Moor to the reigning summit of Tosson Hill (1,443ft). This is an outstanding outing, with fine views in every direction, especially across the fertile Coquet Valley to the distant Cheviot Hills in the north.
Park in the Forestry Commision's car park and picnic area below Simonside summit south of Rothbury. Turn right to walk back up the road and out of the trees towards the col between Garleigh Moor and The Beacon. Before starting west across the ridge, it is worth spending a few minutes locating the numerous mysterious 'cup and ring' marked boulders which litter the slopes of Garleigh Moor below its reigning Iron Age hillfort. A particularly fine example overlooks the road and is marked by a Ministry of Public Buildings and Works sign. Dating from the Bronze Age, these concentric rings and hollows still baffle archaeologists. Back on the road, an easy track leads up through the heather to the first summit on the ridge, The Beacon, which is reached by turning right at the top of the col, leaving the main track which descends over Caudhole Moss. There is a fine view east from this 1,181ft summit across the rich archaeological sites of Garleigh Moor, with an aerial view of the concentric rings of its crowning hillfort. Looking north, the roofs of Rothbury sheltering beneath the tree-clad crag of Addyheugh are prominent in the middle distance, with the mock-Tudor fagade of Cragside peeping out of the trees to the east. From the large cairn on top of The Beacon, follow the broad track westwards down and then up again to the prominent outcrop of Dove (or Dough) Crag. Facing north across the thick forestry plantations of Rothbury Forest directly below, the sandstone rocks of Dove Crag are reminiscent of a Peakland 'edge', with rolling miles of sweet-scented heather moorland stretching down to the south.
Another mile through the heather brings you to the first of the eponymous summits of Simonside, known as Old Stell. Crag. Indeed, if you look down from your lofty vantage point you may be able to make out several stells, or ancient circular sheep pens. The name of Simonside itself is thought to have been derived from Sigemund's Seat, and is recorded as Simundesette in 1279, 'sett' denoting a settlement or dwelling in Old English. The views from the westernmost 1,407ft summit of Simonside are superb - one of the best viewpoints in the whole of Northumberland.
It is a steep descent through the shattered sandstone crags at the western end of Simon-side, where there is some rock-climbing on the coarse fell sandstone. At the foot of the crags, you meet up with the forestry track which leads down to the right through the trees of Rothbury Forest and eventually back to the car park. To complete the ridge, however, head up again towards the narrow neck of land between the trees and over the stile to the impressive crags of Raven's Heugh (1,384ft). Here, there is a fine raven's-eye view between the curiously detached crags across the meandering Coquet to the lakes of Caistron far below. A perfect circular stell lies in the bracken-covered slopes directly beneath the crags of Raven's Heugh ('Heugh' is the local name fora hill which ends abruptly). Another mile through the heather finds Tosson Hill, at 1,443ft, the highest point on the Simonside Hills. There is no official access, but the circular drystone-wall shelter on the summit offers nothing like the views you have already enjoyed on the eastern summits. Retrace your steps to the gap between Raven's Heugh and Simonside and turn left to follow the waymarked forestry tracks which eventually lead back to the car park in Rothbury Forest.